Could Fei Lai Si get any worse?

Unfortunately it seems the answer is yes…

Firstly… please, before I rant, let me make myself clear… please go to Fei Lai Si, it has one of the most beautiful views in China and the mountains, in my mind, ARE the most beautiful mountains on earth.

However, the town is another matter.

Sometimes I often think it may have been easier for Tashi’s to open up at Fei Lai Si. We would then get pretty much ALL of the foreign tourist traffic in the area, and I wouldn’t have to constantly explain to the Lonely Planet and Rough Guide zealots that there is a world outside of the guidebooks, and if you do something different from what is written down in your traveling Bibles then you’re more than likely going to have an amazing time and not have your kidney removed and sold on the black market.

So, I often think maybe Fei lai Si would have been the easier option for the Lodge, but my last visit to the place has firmly confirmed in my mind that Fei Lai Si is not for me. Maybe it’s something to do with the twelve foot wall?
Yes, a twelve foot wall now runs down the entire length of the tiny, one-street town, which hints strongly at yet another entry fee for avid tourists to pay.
Paying to take photos of mountains is not at all a good idea in my world, and not because it’s not worth it, or because I believe natural things should be free. My problem with paying to see mountains is, what happens when you don’t get to see them, do you get your money back? Kinda like when you go on a dolphin spotting trip and the guy says, “if you don’t see any dolphins, you don’t have to pay.” Sounds pretty reasonable, right?

So what about the mountains and Melixueshan? No view no pay or what? As the peak season in Yunnan is the summer, and most of this time the peaks hide away under clouds, will you be able to get a refund? Seriously, I came to Deqin twice in the summer and never saw a thing, before I saw Melixueshan clearly in the winter. (note. Don’t let this put you off coming to Deqin in the summer, I just have bad karma)
The first time I went to Fei Lai Si our driver stopped us on the car park and we looked across at the stupas thinking, “Hmmmm, maybe there’s some mountains there or something? Stupas are nice though.”
Well the stupas have gone! I’m sure they’ll build some more, but you wont be able to see them unless you pay, cus they’ll be behind a twelve foot wall.

So, anyway, I’m glad we’re not at Fei Lai Si, it has its very own path to follow and we’ll see how the finished product looks, maybe you wont even need the view? Who knows?