Feilaisi (Fay lay sir)
What a shame that Feilaisi isn't one of the most stunning places on earth.
Actually, I do it a small injustice. If you're looking at the Kawa Karpo (Meilixueshan) mountain range on a clear day, then Feilaisi IS one of the most beautiful places in China.
Unfortunately, the Kawa Karpo (Meilixueshan) mountains are more often than not covered in cloud, which leaves the traveler with only Feilaisi. Note: for unlimited views of the Deqin Mountains you have to visit Deqin at wintertime... OMG!!!
I love the area around Deqin so much that I took a massive gamble and created Tashi's Mountain Lodge. However when we were planning to open a guesthouse in the area, I never once entertained getting a place in Feilaisi. Our Tibetan friends didn't really understand why.
To me the answer is pretty clear, Feilaisi is a tourist disaster, in my mind the best thing they could do, is knock it all down and start again.... I say this not out of spite but because it could be SO GOOD.
Unfortunately, they're building even more buildings that look terrible and show no signs of stopping, so the future for this one street town is, well... dull.
My advice: Go to Feilaisi, it still is one of the best places in Yunnan, if not China, and while you're there, say a little prayer for the town and hope that one day it will grow up to be the place it deserves to be.
Highlights
You can't beat sitting on the patio at the Migrating Bird Bar on a clear day. The view is so impossibly huge, your mind can't take it all in. It really is inspiring. Shame the Migrating Bird isn't very happening place. What is the deal with this place anyway? Can anyone tell me? It has got everything, a trillion dollar view, great venue, great interior, ok food and coffee but no atmosphere. It feels like the place used to be the trekking hub of the region but is now bored of it all.... What's their story? Does anyone know? Email me
Buying Om Mani Padme Hum slates from the man near the pagoda.
If you're a coffee adict, Feilaisi is probably the best place to get a good fix
And of course the view..... duh!
Lowlights
The lack of any town planning.
The view that modern is good, so let's build huge modern hotels that look rubbish and out of place
Stinky toilets
The rubbish on the floor
The way bars stack up all their beer bottles outside the doors, in a lame way to show that they were once busy
The way the restaurants have HUGE menus with loads and loads of choice in them, but don't actually serve any of it.
for more info visit www.deqinlodge.com
