Friday, February 8, 2008

Miancimu


Here's a great picture of Miancimu, Kawa Karpo's wife-mountain.
The most beautiful mountain in the world

Wednesday, February 6, 2008

Deqin+Weather

Here's another site showing the weather for the Deqin area

http://www.weatherforecastmap.com/china/deqin/

Winter is such a great time to be in Deqin.... don't be put-off by those low temperatures.

When the sunshines in the day-time it is glorious.... and as soon as the sun goes down, just wrap-up, curl up next to a nice warm fire, a cup of ginger-lemon tea and some good people to chat with.... can't beat it!

Deqin weather

If you want to know what the weather is like in Deqin, then try this Yahoo weather link

http://uk.weather.yahoo.com/CHXX/CHXX0360/index_c.html

Tuesday, January 29, 2008

For the latest information about Deqin visit our new site

www.tibettrekking.org

Tibet Permits - Tibet Permit
At Tashi’s Mountain Lodge we can get you permits for the stunning road trip from Yunnan to Lhasa. Here’re a few things you should know about the Tibet permit.

What you have to understand about the Tibet permit is that those involved in it have every reason to make sure you have one and no reason to let you pass if you don’t. For sure the permit restrictions are easing-off slowly as the years go by, there once was a time when every westerner in Lhasa would be checked. Now this simply is not the case, but if you’re going to do long land routes, especially from the east then you will need to “play the game” and get a permit.
I have met countless people in Deqin who have told me that they’re off to Lhasa, some even proudly showing me their bus tickets to Yanjing or Markam. With every person I’m exactly the same, I firstly tell them that the trip is fantastic, probably the best thing they will ever do, and because of this I recommend that you get a permit so you can guarantee finishing the trip. I then tell them that I can help them get a permit and tell them how much it will cost. Without question everyone has turned me down and assured me that they will be the person that can get through. On this, I always give them my email address and tell them if you get to Lhasa then drop me a mail. No one has ever emailed me. Maybe they thought I was a conceited fart or maybe, just maybe they didn’t make it. Who’s to tell?
The best way to help get rid of the permits is to behave and work within the permits. One of the principal functions of the Tibet permit is to keep backpackers out. This is not official policy, and you wont see it written anywhere, but in the Chinese government’s eyes there’s only a finite amount of tourism available in Tibet and it is happy to fill the relatively small window with internal tourism and top-end international tourism. They’re not interested in having a bunch of broke backpackers kicking around Lhasa full of impractical ideas for Tibet. Unfurling free-Tibet flags at base-camp or anywhere in Tibet, does not help the Tibetans or the backpacker’s cause and is a really dumb thing to do!
Tibet is part of China, whether you like it or not. If you have really strong opinions on this, that you would probably find hard to keep to yourself, then you’re best off staying home and petitioning your government. Trying to sneak into Tibet by not paying the permit because you think it’s politically incorrect helps no one.

As an independent backpacker, your chances of getting from Yunnan to Lhasa are practically zero if you’re not prepared to pay. ( If you’re an independent cyclist with the right equipment then it is possible)
Another common situation is meeting backpackers who ask me whether I know anyone who can “sneak them in.” This I find really comical and always answer in the same way:
“So, you want to pay nothing, yet find someone who is willing to risk everything? Do you see a problem in that?”
For sure there are people who will smuggle you into Tibet, there are people all over the world who will do anything you want if you pay them. I’ve met people in Lhasa who have been smuggled in and they still had to pay. Being smuggled in is very stressful and for the small amount of money they saved I’m not entirely sure it was worth it. Plus, you always face the obstacle of getting back out, which usually involves a fine, so you didn’t save any money in the long run. It just added a heap of stress to what is an amazing trip of a lifetime. There are those puritans that will say, “well at least we didn’t pay the Chinese government for the permit!” Well you paid them for your China visa, and entry fees to every attraction you visit in China, what’s so different about a Tibet Permit? Which inevitably gets the quip back, “the Chinese government persecutes the Tibetan culture.” Well, this is a whole different rant which I’ll get onto another time.

So, back to the permits.
Tibet permits are easy and relatively inexpensive to get and well worth the money. My advice is to drop the baggage that goes along with them, swallow the pill and go and visit, legitimately, one of the most spectacular places on earth.
Let’s say for a minute that Tibet was a free country, just like Bhutan, it would need to impose a heavy levy to restrict tourist numbers. This is the function of the Tibet permit. However, people, and especially backpackers have problems in that it is imposed by the Chinese government. There are two simple replies to this view.
1) As Tibet is now part of China, the government has a legal right to impose a levy, in the same way as the Bhutanese government does over its country
2) If you don’t agree with the policies of a country, stay home.

What are the current state of permits?
It’s no secret that the permits exist in a constant state of flux and it is conceivable that one day they will disappear, but don’t hold your breath on this, as I’ve mentioned before, the permits serve many functions for Chinese government and the TAR.
After all the troubles at the Horse festival Lithang and the unfurling of the Free Tibet flag by some backpackers in 07, the Chinese government became pretty jittery and their response was to freeze permits and then bring them back at a higher price. Right now, as of 29.01.08 I’m told you can’t get a Tibet permit to take you from Yunnan to Lhasa for approx 1500RMB. The price will probably come down to 1000RMB in the spring, or maybe they wont. Added on to this is the time it takes to get a road permit. The shortest period I’ve ever known has been about 4 working days. Currently officials are quoting 10-14 days, which is a significant hurdle for most travellers, but that’s the point.

If you think back to why most of us want to go to Tibet it’s because we have that desire to go somewhere that is different and unattainable, a place that, in the past, needed a monumental effort to reach. Well, look at it like this, even though it’s now much easier to physically get to Tibet, the Chinese government are still asking a huge commitment from those who wish to travel to the Land of The Snows. Don’t think for a second that if Tibet were free the Tibetan government wouldn’t put on a “chunky” visa fee too, so…. As travellers you should just accept the permits and visit Tibet, it will be the pinnacle of your trip and in years ahead, you want think about the extra couple of grand it cost you.

Another common question is, "why do the road permits cost so much" Well basically you're getting a number of police districts to agree to let you pass. (I'm told it is four) All these areas need to be informed and paid, which increases the price. When you buy a plane ticket to Lhasa, you just get the Lhasa permit only. Therefore, it's cheaper. If you want to go to other places in Tibet once you arrive by plane in Lhasa then the travel agents will add-on other permit charges to your trip price.

For those people who think they can sneak their way in from Yunnan to Lhasa, then there are at least six possible places where you can be stopped and asked to produce a permit on the road. As most Tibetans agree, you can probably sneak through a couple, but all six is very difficult - YOU FEELIN LUCKY?

One last thing on permits.
A lot of people ask me if I can organize cars for them to take them to Lhasa, which I can, with just a small commitment of money and time from them. Per person a week-long trip to Lhasa will cost less than 4000RMB. Most people balk at the price, which I find amazing, and instead choose to back-track down into Yunnan, spending more time doing the same old stuff, and by the time they’ve reached a beach in Thailand they’ve spent well over 4000RMB.
You will spend almost as much backtracking as you will going forward to Lhasa, but the benefits of going forward fast outstrip anything you could do by doubling-back on yourself.
My advice is….. that once you’re in Deqin the road to Lhasa is open to everyone who wants to go, you’ve just got to want it enough, and all those who turn back, go not because of the price or the time, but because they didn’t really want it enough.

In the past, only travellers with strong determination reached Lhasa by road, and in a way it’s not changed a bit!

Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Where to stay around Deqin

For the latest information about Deqin visit our new site

www.tibettrekking.org

When arriving in Deqin there have been three usual choices, either stay in town or in the Fei Lai Si area or go to Mingyong town?
With the opening up of Tashi's Mountain Lodge, you now have a fourth option. The Lodge is situated half way between Deqin and Fei lai Si on the main road to Tibet. The benefits of staying at the Lodge will be dealt with in another post. Here I will stick to the other options.

Mingyong Town
To get to Mingyong town, you will either need to catch a bus or get a small taxi. You can rent a taxi from 100-200RMB, depending on how hard you bargain. Either way, if there's a group of you it's a bargain as you can easily fit 4 people with big packs into one taxi comfortably. It's a long way from Deqin to Mingyong, at least one and a half hours and you will drive past Tashi's Lodge and Fei Lai Si.
When entering Mingyong, via the main road, you will also have to pay the entry fee to the area. This is about 60-70RMB each. If you arrive late at night the office maybe closed and you can slip through.
Mingyong town is certainly no "one horse town." There are more ponies than people, and they wander up and down the streets like gangs of bored youths. There's a long line of Chinese-style hotels along the only street, that have token Tibetan decoration on the outside, they're all about the same as each other, and vary according to price. You can expect to pay around 50-100RMB for a double room, with bathroom, TV and loads of other gizmos that either you don't use or don't work.

The main reason to go to Mingyong Town is to go to the Glacier, which is well worth it and I will deal with that in another post.

You can also get to Mingyong by bus. This isn't as straight-forward as you would first think, so I will explain.
The main bus station is at the bottom end of town. If you imagine that Deqin is shaped like a T, then when you get off the bus you are located at the bottom end of the T. To find the bus to Mingyong you have to walk back up the road and take a left turn at the the T-junction. Carry on along the road, past a scruffy Chinese hotel on your left and a couple of yak butchers on your right. There’s no actual bus stop, but there’s normally buses parked up in this area and you can ask which bus it is and when it is leaving. Last time I checked the bus cost 15RMB and takes a good while.

Staying in Deqin
The majority of people who stay in Deqin stay at the Deqin Hotel, mainly because it has the best write-up in the Lonely Planet. As far as Chinese style hotels go, with a lick of Tibetaness, then the place is completely ordinary and run of the mill, but if you have to stay in Deqin then stay here. To find it, take a left out of the bus station and it’s about 200metres down the road on the right.
As far as other hotels in town go, I’ve heard scary stories about most, even the so-called 3stars, but if all you care about is cheapness or convenience, then take your pick.
Apparently, there’s also a new, big, swish hotel just opened-up at the bottom of town. I haven’t been there yet but will go check it out at some stage. Apparently it’s the talk of the town and like no other hotel around. This probably signifies the coming of greater tourism to the area.

Fei Lai Si
What can I say about Fei Lai Si?
I’ll be completely honest and fess-up that I think it’s a complete waste. When the views are clear, there’s no place like it on earth, it’s just so spectacular that it spins you out, that is if you are facing the mountains. However, if you swing round 180’ you can then soak up the pathetic excuse for a street that is Fei Lai Si. There’s neither a restaurant or hotel/guesthouse that is really worth mentioning. Yeah, some are ok, but I guess they’re relying on their spectacular views. The problem is, is that 7 times outta 10, Fei lai Si, doesn’t have the breathtaking views! Even the Migratory Bird (MB), which is about the most decent place there, leaves you wanting. To me the MB is a bit of a conundrum. It is so well done, has such a great spot and the interior resonates like it should be a hotbed of trekking and mountaineering news, but the thing is it’s not! The MB has everything but soul and that’s what makes it such an enigma.
Most people stay in Fei Lai Si to see the sun rise over on Meili, which is very spectacular, but is rare to see in some months. If you really want to get a guaranteed, picture postcard view of Meili, then you have to go in winter. I’ve had numerous conversations with people who were adamant that they were going to see the sunrise, despite me telling them about the daily weather patterns and conditions not being favourable. Unfortunately, simple staying in Fei lai Si and getting up early isn’t enough karma to witness a spectacular sunrise, you also need timing.
Saying this, making the effort to travel up to Deqin in the hope of seeing Meili is well worth it and one of the best things you can do in Yunnan, so don’t be put off, by the chance of not seeing it.
BTW, the sunrises, in front of the mountains and casts its rays over the faces in the early morning, and then the sunsets behind the the mountains, creating some stunning shadows .
If you want a spectacular rare, treat, then try viewing the mountains on a clear night with a full moon, that really is something to behold, with all the peaks and glaciers illuminated by the milky, crisp light.

Fei Lai Si is also a good place to start a few treks in the area. If you want to trek, you should stay at Tashi’s Lodge, I will write about The Lodge in another post.

Friday, January 18, 2008

Why come to Deqin?

The biggest mistake people make when visiting Yunnan is not visiting Deqin.
The second biggest mistake people make when coming up to Deqin is not allowing themselves enough time to explore…all too often I hear people remarking that they wished they hadn’t spent so long in other towns like Shangri-la, Lijiang or Dali and come straight up to Deqin.
Unlike other places in the area, you don’t have to look too hard to find the real “Shangri-la.”
Deqin prefecture is where the big mountains are to be found with impossibly steep valleys, mind-blowing vistas, remote monasteries and class A trekking, for all levels, available all year round. Yes, all year round! In fact the best time to trek is during the winter months.

So, if Deqin is so great, why don’t people know about it?

The main reason for this is that there isn’t a lot of information available on the area, so the average traveler is left guessing whether it’s worth visiting or not. The fact that most travelers will have to return the way they came also puts them off visiting. (Deqin is the last town before Tibet proper, so it’s difficult to get any further without a permit)

It’s apparent remoteness and obscurity shouldn’t deter you and the area is “must do” place. Here are ten good reasons to visit Deqin.

1. Meili Snow Mountain & Mt. Miancimu
2. Trek up to the Mingyong Glacier
3. Trekking to Yubeng
4. Trekking along the Mekong River
5. Tashi’s Mountain Lodge, Reringkha village
6. To organize a road trip to Lhasa
7. The spectacular drive up from Shangri-la
8. Deqin’s Tibetan Disco
9. Sleeping in remote Tibetan villages
10. Special ginger, lemon tea

I will write about each one of these in depth in this blog in the future and will endeavor to share all the information I have about the area and visiting Tibet.

Please feel free to add you comments or questions and I’ll respond/answer as best I can.

DB