Could Fei Lai Si get any worse?

Unfortunately it seems the answer is yes…

Firstly… please, before I rant, let me make myself clear… please go to Fei Lai Si, it has one of the most beautiful views in China and the mountains, in my mind, ARE the most beautiful mountains on earth.

However, the town is another matter.

Sometimes I often think it may have been easier for Tashi’s to open up at Fei Lai Si. We would then get pretty much ALL of the foreign tourist traffic in the area, and I wouldn’t have to constantly explain to the Lonely Planet and Rough Guide zealots that there is a world outside of the guidebooks, and if you do something different from what is written down in your traveling Bibles then you’re more than likely going to have an amazing time and not have your kidney removed and sold on the black market.

So, I often think maybe Fei lai Si would have been the easier option for the Lodge, but my last visit to the place has firmly confirmed in my mind that Fei Lai Si is not for me. Maybe it’s something to do with the twelve foot wall?
Yes, a twelve foot wall now runs down the entire length of the tiny, one-street town, which hints strongly at yet another entry fee for avid tourists to pay.
Paying to take photos of mountains is not at all a good idea in my world, and not because it’s not worth it, or because I believe natural things should be free. My problem with paying to see mountains is, what happens when you don’t get to see them, do you get your money back? Kinda like when you go on a dolphin spotting trip and the guy says, “if you don’t see any dolphins, you don’t have to pay.” Sounds pretty reasonable, right?

So what about the mountains and Melixueshan? No view no pay or what? As the peak season in Yunnan is the summer, and most of this time the peaks hide away under clouds, will you be able to get a refund? Seriously, I came to Deqin twice in the summer and never saw a thing, before I saw Melixueshan clearly in the winter. (note. Don’t let this put you off coming to Deqin in the summer, I just have bad karma)
The first time I went to Fei Lai Si our driver stopped us on the car park and we looked across at the stupas thinking, “Hmmmm, maybe there’s some mountains there or something? Stupas are nice though.”
Well the stupas have gone! I’m sure they’ll build some more, but you wont be able to see them unless you pay, cus they’ll be behind a twelve foot wall.

So, anyway, I’m glad we’re not at Fei Lai Si, it has its very own path to follow and we’ll see how the finished product looks, maybe you wont even need the view? Who knows?

Feilaisi

Feilaisi (Fay lay sir)

What a shame that Feilaisi isn't one of the most stunning places on earth.

Actually, I do it a small injustice. If you're looking at the Kawa Karpo (Meilixueshan) mountain range on a clear day, then Feilaisi IS one of the most beautiful places in China.

Unfortunately, the Kawa Karpo (Meilixueshan) mountains are more often than not covered in cloud, which leaves the traveler with only Feilaisi. Note: for unlimited views of the Deqin Mountains you have to visit Deqin at wintertime... OMG!!!

I love the area around Deqin so much that I took a massive gamble and created Tashi's Mountain Lodge. However when we were planning to open a guesthouse in the area, I never once entertained getting a place in Feilaisi. Our Tibetan friends didn't really understand why.

To me the answer is pretty clear, Feilaisi is a tourist disaster, in my mind the best thing they could do, is knock it all down and start again.... I say this not out of spite but because it could be SO GOOD.

Unfortunately, they're building even more buildings that look terrible and show no signs of stopping, so the future for this one street town is, well... dull.

My advice: Go to Feilaisi, it still is one of the best places in Yunnan, if not China, and while you're there, say a little prayer for the town and hope that one day it will grow up to be the place it deserves to be.

Highlights

You can't beat sitting on the patio at the Migrating Bird Bar on a clear day. The view is so impossibly huge, your mind can't take it all in. It really is inspiring. Shame the Migrating Bird isn't very happening place. What is the deal with this place anyway? Can anyone tell me? It has got everything, a trillion dollar view, great venue, great interior, ok food and coffee but no atmosphere. It feels like the place used to be the trekking hub of the region but is now bored of it all.... What's their story? Does anyone know? Email me

Buying Om Mani Padme Hum slates from the man near the pagoda.

If you're a coffee adict, Feilaisi is probably the best place to get a good fix

And of course the view..... duh!

Lowlights

The lack of any town planning.

The view that modern is good, so let's build huge modern hotels that look rubbish and out of place

Stinky toilets

The rubbish on the floor

The way bars stack up all their beer bottles outside the doors, in a lame way to show that they were once busy

The way the restaurants have HUGE menus with loads and loads of choice in them, but don't actually serve any of it.

for more info visit www.deqinlodge.com